Anatomy of Kimono
The many parts of kimono each have their own individual names. While it is not necessary to know every term in order to wear and enjoy kimono, learning them can be very useful when shopping for kimono or describing one. The kimono is a symetrical garment, unlike some western clothes, and the same terms apply to both the left and right sides of the kimono. The same terms still apply to informal yukata, except that yukata and some kimono lack doura and susomawashi (parts of the lining, as described below). Doura - 胴裏 This is the upper lining of the inside of the kimono. In women's kimono, this lining is often made of very simple fabric because it will not be seen when the kimono is worn. In men's kimono, it may be decorated fancifully, as a tradition dating back to times in which fine fabrics for outerwear were controlled by law, and so wealthy men would invest in ornate linings in order to show off their wealth to others in situations such as changing at the bath house. Eri - 衿 This is the collar of the kimono. Because it is made of a 1/4 width of the bolt, it is the same width as the okumi (see below), but is folded in half when the kimono is donned in order to provide extra stiffness. Some modern kimono have snaps in the back of the eri to help hold it folded in half, while yukata or thin kimono such as Ro or Sha weaves may have the collars sewn into the folded position. It is not uncommon to find old and vintage kimono with worn lines along the crease of the eri. Fuki The "hem guard" at the bottom of the kimono. Furi The portion of the sleeve below the arm hole, IE, the part of the sleeve that 'swings'. It contains the Tamoto (read below). Mae-Migoro - 前身頃 The wide panel of the body of the kimono, extending from the front of the body, and over the shoulder, without a seam at the shoulder. There will be a seam across the middle of the back, where it would not be seen when the obi is worn, connecting the Mae-Migoro to the Ushiro-Migoro (see below). Miyatsukuchi The arm hole on the body, under where the sleeve is attached. This is not present in men's kimono, only in women's. This hole is useful for dressing and properly adjusting the Ohashori. Okumi - 衽 or 袵 The narrow panel on the front body of the kimono, it is sometimes translated in sewing terms as 'gore' or 'gusset'. The added width provided by the Okumi allows the kimono to wrap around the body instead of hanging open in the front like a coat. Sode - 袖 This is the term for the sleeve as a whole, while other parts of the sleeve are divided into terms such as the Furi, Tamoto, Sode-Guchi, Sode-Tsuke, etc. Sode-Guchi - 袖口 The sleeve opening around the wrist, where the hand emerges. Some kimono may have 'false layers' sewn into the edge of the Sode-Guchi to create the appearance of wearing additional layered garments. By tucking the arm back slightly into the Tamoto (see below), it's possible to grasp the Sode-Guchi and manipulate the sleeve, which is often used in traditional Japanese dance and theater, or used to display the sleeve. Sode-Tsuke - 袖付 This term refers specifically to the 'arm hole seam', the seam which connects the Sode to the Mae-Migoro and Ushiro-Migoro. In direct English, this is the seam that connects the sleeve to the body. In men's kimono, the Sode-Tsuke follows all the way under the armpit and seals the sleeve fully to the body, while in women's kimono, there is an opening at the bottom called the Miyatsukuchi (see above). Susomawashi - 裾回し This is the lower lining of the kimono. In women's kimono, it is often made of more attractive fabric than the Doura, because it is more likely to be seen when the Okumi flaps open while walking, or if the hem becomes lifted when ascending stairs or stepping over puddles. Tamoto - 袂 The sleeve 'pouch', essentially, the interior portion of the Furi that forms a 'pocket'. In women's kimono, the